Set on top of a tree-covered knoll 27m high, Wat Phnom is
the only hill in town. According to legend, the first pagoda on this site was
erected in 1373 to house four statues of Buddha deposited here by the waters of
the Mekong and discovered by a woman name, Penh.
The main entrance to Wat Phnom is via the grand eastern staircase, which is
guarded by lions and naga (snake) balustrades. Today, many people come here to
pray for good luck and success in school exams or business affairs. When a
petitioner's wish is granted, he or she returns to make the offering (such as a
garland of jasmine flowers or bananas, of which the spirits are said to be
especially fond) promised when the request was made.
The vihara (temple sanctuary) was rebuilt in 1434, 1806, 1894,
and, most recently, in 1926. West of the vihara is an enormous stupa containing
the ashes of King Ponhea Vat (reigned 1405 to 1467). In a small pavilion on the
south side of the passage between the vihara and the stupa is a statue of the
smiling and rather plump Madame Penh.A bit to the north of the vihara and below
it is an eclectic shrine dedicated to the genie Preah Chau, who is especially
revered by the Vietnamese. On either side ofthe entrance to the chamber in
which a statue of Preah Chau sits are guardian spirits bearing iron bats. On
the tile table in front of the two guardian spirits are drawings of Confucius, and
two Chinese-style figures of the sages Thang Cheng (on the right) and Thang
Thay (on the left). To the left of the central altar is an eight-armed statue
of Vishnu.
Down the hill from the shrine is a royal stupa sprouting
full-size trees from its roof. For now, the roots are holding the bricks
together in their net-like grip, but when the trees die the tower will slowly
crumble. If you can't make it out to Angkor, this stupa gives a pretty good
idea of what the jungle can do (and is doing) to Cambodia Phnom
Penh
